Dutch studio AMO emphasised the “paradoxical dichotomy” between office interiors and the natural world for the Prada Autumn Winter 2024 menswear show, which featured a plexiglass runway above grass and streams.
AMO, the research and creative studio of architecture office OMA, created the scenography for the 14 January show at the Rem Koolhaas-designed Fondazione Prada during Milan Fashion Week.
The arts centre’s Deposito space was covered with forest-like swathes of real grass interspersed with rocks, pebbles, leaves and running water to emulate natural streams.
In stark contrast, AMO constructed a clear plexiglass runway mounted onto a gridded structure that was positioned above the unmanicured grass.
“The studio created a set design juxtaposing an office interior with a natural landscape,” said Prada, which is headquartered in Milan.
Uniform rows of familiar black swivel chairs snaked across the geometric runway, providing seating for the guests and creating pathways for the models.
Embedded in the ceiling, office-style strip lighting was reflected across the plexiglass in rigid patterns, while mist was released into the space for an atmospheric effect.
On the edges of the set, AMO installed walls formed from recognisably corporate blue panels, often found in office environments.
One section, where guests entered the runway, featured whole booths created with the panels, complete with large desks, swivel chairs and desktop computers emblazoned with the Prada logo on their otherwise blank screens.
Presented by the fashion house’s co-creative directors, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the show’s looks echoed the contrasting scenography.
Classic suit-and-tie pairings finished in neutral textiles were combined with more vibrant pieces such as swimming caps and goggle-like sunglasses crafted as a nod to the outdoors.
“This collection is about something basic – the emotional instinct to remain attached to something we know, the cycles of nature,” said Prada.
“There is a simple assertion, of a deep and essential human need to connect with the world around us,” continued the brand.
“Demonstrating the paradoxical dichotomy between two coexisting worlds [offices and nature], this show explores fundamental truths of humanity, our natural instincts and our emotional needs.”
Longtime-collaborators AMO and Prada have been creating catwalks together at Fondazione Prada since 2004, including the brand’s previous Autumn Winter menswear show, which took place below a retractable ceiling that moved to reveal a series of art deco chandeliers.
More recently, the studio also designed the scenography for Prada’s Spring Summer 2024 menswear show – an aluminium-clad space with slime falling from the ceiling to form liquid walls.
The photography and video are courtesy of Prada.